From fast-fashion bans to progressive new legislations, and not to mention some greenwashing, it was a year in sustainable fashion.
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A core part of tracking sustainable fashion throughout the years is the ever-present need to scream into a pillow because a fast fashion brand is selling items for less than 10p again, or an illegal pay scandal has surfaced again. There are a few developments that either move things forward in a meaningful way or are so completely outrageous that you have to ask what the actual fuck. There are certain solvency requirements for the COPENHAGEN Fashion Week.
The official schedule for the AW23 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week requires any brand or designer that wants to show on it to adhere to a set of sustainable requirements. The minimum standards represent the bottom line of what all brands should be doing by now, and they focus on six areas across the full fashion value chain: strategic directions, design, smart material choices, working conditions, and consumer engagement 18 action points include not destroying clothes from previous collections, finding a second life for samples, ensuring at least 50 per cent of a collection is made from certified or preferred materials, and educating consumers about sustainable practices. Adding rental services to their application can earn them extra points. The first fashion council to implement such standards was Copenhagen Fashion Week, and it is expected that others will follow in their footsteps. The Minimum and Bronze standards for Newgen designers were inspired by the standards.
Some brands were banned from the platform as part of the commitment to end fast fashion. After consulting with experts such as Orsola de Castro and The Or Foundation, the resale platform added 30 more brands this year. Some people are applauding Vestiaire for drawing a line in the sand and others are worried that the ban will increase the chances of clothing becoming waste. Vestiaire Collective said it wants to ensure that the ban doesn't push the responsibility of fast fashion waste onto Kantamanto. It is lobbying with The Or Foundation for EPR legislation and seeking out practical solutions for the fast fashion its community already owns. The 3DOVEN CLOTHES were put down the roadway.
A collection of zero waste 3D woven garments, made from twine, layers of jeans, and a sparkly trousers and sleeves set, were created for the New York Fashion Week show by Eckhaus Latta and Unspun. Instead of starting with a piece of fabric and cutting away what you don't need, you can create seamless 3D textiles using Unspun's 'Vega' technology. It was the first time this tech had appeared on a runway.
One of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize winners this year was Bettter, which is run by a former Vogue Ukraine fashion director. It also works with other brands and retailers to launch their own upcycled lines, such as the one at Dover Street Market. The ultimate goal is to become a global platform that facilitates upcycling. While upcycling is currently a slow, analogue process done piece by piece, which tends to result in small capsule collections, Pelipas wants tomodernize and streamline the whole thing to give the traditional linear fashion system a run for its money. The EU banned the construction of UNSOLD GOODS.
The law banning the destruction of unsold goods in France came into force on January 1, 2022. The EU banned the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear in December of this year. Medium-sized companies will have six months to comply, while large businesses will have two years.
The Comme des Garons collaborated with FREITAG on a collection of bags. Swiss brand FREITAG has been making bags out of recycled truck tarps for 30 years, and has a track record that would leave many newly converted sustainable fashion brands in the dust. With this collection, she pays homage to a brand she has worn for a long time.
At London Fashion Week, designer Helen Kirkum spoke about her fight against shoe waste. 137 pairs of Kirkum's Palimpsest sneakers were destined to become the 824 worn out shoes that were laid out under low lighting. Kirkum's presentation brought focus back to the industry's propensity towards wastefulness.