Gucci's new creative director is introduced as he presents his first collection after eight years of fireworks from his predecessor. We are just barely eight months into the collection, and you would think that we have a pretty good idea of what the answer to that question might be. The collection he showed on Monday night in London was the work of a designer doubling down in the face of the criticism his efforts have generated so far. He considers his show a debt repaid to London, not only for what he considers to be the city's constant support for him personally, but also for the opportunities it offered Guccio Gucci a century ago.
Gucci Cruise 2025. (Spolight/Launchmetrics.com) Gucci Cruise 2025. (Spolight/Launchmetrics.com) Andrew Scott and Paul Mescal, who starred in Andrew Haigh's "All of Us Strangers", were at the concert on Monday and they appreciated the song playing in their presence. The last time Gucci showed in London was Cruise 2017. The Tanks at Tate Modern is a cathedral that is stark and shadowy. A different kind of angel too, as a duet with Philip Glass on the soundtrack of "Heart of Glass" raised the spectre of Harry's past connection with Coach, a comparison which didn't happen. In the same way that Coach has pinned down a particular kind of urban spirit for New York, De Sarno's women seemed to evoke a slightly unkempt tomboy type that was vaguely recognisable as London-ish, even if its energy was challenged. If I read the shownotes right, the show was the culmination of a trilogy: desirability, sensuality, and now the double. The romance I wasn't getting was plain to see, and so it was here. I was going to think about a young Italian guy in London, Guccio, who was released into London's tumult of contrasts. A green lace bra is under a white poplin shirt. There is a lime green bow over brown micro shorts. There was still a sense of freedom, even if they were anchored by huge leather blousons. He likes a black leather brothel creeper with Gucci-striped white socks. I might have a better idea of who he is as a person, but I don't know who he intends his designs for. The Tanks were covered in a mass of greenery.